Love it or hate it, buzzing, sweaty, exotic Bangkok is a city that really is larger than life. For some, the frenetic pace, heat, traffic and lack of personal space can be overpowering and are good reasons to pass through the city as quickly as possible but, for many others, the sheer dynamism is intoxicating.
History
In 1782, Bangkok became the capital of what was then Siam, following the destruction of the previous capital, Ayutthaya. Bangkok is not the name used by the Thais – they call it Krung Thep, which is actually a very shortened version of its extremely long full title.
Bangkok is a curious blend of the traditional East with the modern West, Bangkok’s every street has a surprise in hold for the visitor. Ramshackle buildings crouch next to exotic temples surrounded by delightful gardens, which are in turn overlooked by modern hotels and offices.
Bangkok has emerged as a major world city with the traffic jams to match, as well as the all-pervasive mobile phones and designer clothes that are a prominent feature on the streets.
The chaos on the roads is mirrored by the busy traffic on the Chao Phraya River, which dissects the city and is regularly crisscrossed by long-tailed boats, river taxis and small rowing boats, all miraculously missing each other.
But traditional Thai life is never very far away. Weaving among the nose-to-tail traffic in the morning rush hour, saffron-robed monks can still be seen collecting alms, while just moments from the city centre whole communities live in stilt houses by the river, eking out a living using skills that have not changed in centuries.
Getting There
By Air
Bangkok International Airport, located 30km (19 miles) east of the city centre, is operated by the Airports Authority of Thailand. Opened in September 2006, to replace cramped Don Muang Airport, it is a major gateway to South-East Asia, already one of the region’s busiest airports and will initially handle up to 45 million passengers annually.
Approximate flight times to Bangkok: From London is 12 hours 55 minutes; from New York is 17 hours; from Los Angeles is 14 hours 30 minutes; from Toronto is 19 hours 10 minutes and from Sydney is 10 hours.
Airport facilities: These include 24-hour shopping, duty-free, restaurants, snack bars, postal services, bureaux de change, tourist information, hotel reservations, left-luggage and medical service. Car hire companies include Avis and Budget.
Business facilities: There is a business centre and Internet facilities. There are several executive lounges and services including limousine hire.
Transport to the city: Taxis can be pre-paid for at the Arrivals Hall in the airport; visitors should expect to pay up to B1,000 to the city centre (journey time – 40-90 minutes) plus road tolls of B65 at the booths. Airport Express buses operate four different routes into the city. Route AE1 goes to the Silom Road business district, AE2 goes to Banglamphu, AE3 goes to Wireless Road and AE4 goes to Hualampong Railway Station (journey times – about 1 hour). An overhead city rail link is currently under construction and is expected to open in late 2008.
Getting There By Rail
The State Railways of Thailand operates four lines, all terminating in Bangkok. They run trains with air-conditioned and non-air-conditioned carriages. The main station in Bangkok is Hualampong, Rama IV Road, which serves most of the long-distance routes. Facilities at the station include cafés, bureau de change, ATM, left-luggage, post office and hotel reservation service. It is advisable to book tickets for long-distance trains in advance. Noi station across the river in Thonburi serves Kanchanaburi and a few destinations to the south so visitors should check which station to depart from.
Rail services: The four lines run from Chiang Mai in the north, Nong Khai in the northeast, Pattaya in the east and from Surat Thani and Butterworth (Malaysia) in the south. Direct trains take from 3 hours 25 minutes to Pattaya, 11 hours 15 minutes to Chiang Mai and 21 hours 10 minutes to Butterworth. The Thailand Rail Pass is available and is valid for 20 days.
Transport to the city: Each station is served by numerous buses to the city. The new subway system starts at Hualampong station and the National Stadium Skytrain station is relatively close.
Getting There By Road
Thailand has a reasonable network of roads and highways throughout the country, designated by numbers. Traffic drives on the left and the wearing of seat belts is compulsory with on-the-spot fines for offenders. The speed limits are 60kph (37mph) in the city, 90kph (56mph) on main country roads and 120kph (74mph) on expressways. A national driving licence or International Driving Permit are required but long-term visitors staying over three months would need to obtain a Thai driving licence. The minimum age for driving is 18 years. It is illegal to drink and drive in Thailand.
Driving in Thailand is not for the faint-hearted as drivers tend to take risks and overtake on bends and hills, while buses and lorries drive as if they own the road. Driving at night is to be avoided as most heavy trucks travel at this time. The incidence of traffic accidents is high and, when foreigners are involved in accidents, it is always assumed that it is they who are at fault and they are expected to pay the costs. Having said all that, driving is the best way to see the country and reach out-of-the-way places.
Emergency breakdown service: There is no national breakdown service but all car hire companies will provide a telephone number to their clients for use in case of a breakdown or emergency.
Routes to the city: The national highways are all designated by numbers. National Highway No 4 goes south to Hua Hin; National Highway No 3 goes east to Pattaya; and National Highway No 32 and No 11 go to Phitsanulok.
Approximate driving times to Bangkok: From Hua Hin – 3 hours; Pattaya – 3 hours; Phitsanulok – 5 hours 30 minutes.
Coach services: Bangkok has three main bus terminals serving different areas of the country. Both air-conditioned and non-air-conditioned buses operate, but the air-conditioned ones tend to be faster and to make less stops en route. Buses south to Hua Hin, Phuket and the Thai-Malaysian border operate from the Southern Bus Terminal, Boromratchonnani. Buses to Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai in the north and Ubon Ratchathani and Nong Khai in the northeast operate from the North/northeastern Bus Terminal, Kampaeng Petch 2 Road. Buses to Pattaya and Trat in the east operate from the Eastern Bus Terminal, Soi 40 Sukhumvit Road.
Getting Around
Public Transport
The public transport system within Bangkok is plentiful and cheap, although most visitors use the taxis or the three-wheeled tuk tuks (see below). An elevated monorail, called the Bangkok Transit System but known as the Skytrain, operates on two lines across the city. The Sukhumvit Line runs from On Nut along Sukhumvit Road to Siam Square, Phaya Thai Road, Victory Monument and Mo Chit. The Silom Line starts at Saphan Taksin and runs through Silom’s business area, Siam Square, ending at the National Stadium. Since opening, the efficient Skytrain has vastly improved the time it takes to move around the city. The government has approved extension of the lines across the river and to the south, but work is yet to start. Trains operate frequently 0600-0000. Tickets should be purchased from automatic ticket machines. Passes can be bought for 10, 15 and 30 journeys, to be used within 30 days. A one-day pass is available for unlimited trips.
The Bangkok Metro, opened in July 2004, covers parts of the city not served by the Skytrain. Its one route starts at Hualampong station and finishes at Bang Sue in the north of the city. There are 18 stations in total with three intersecting with the Skytrain. The service operates 0600-0000. Tokens should be purchased from automatic ticket machines; fares depend on the distance travelled. Passes can be bought for one day and three days.
The Bangkok Mass Transit Authority runs a comprehensive and highly complex bus system, which operates across the city 0430-2300. Fares depend on the distance travelled and the type of bus. The yellow and orange Euro II air-conditioned buses use fuel-efficient engines to attempt to reduce air pollution in the city. Microbuses have guaranteed seats. There is also a limited night service (cream and red buses). Bus route maps are widely available in hotels and bookshops.
Taxis
Taxis can be hailed on the streets. If they are metered taxis, they will have a taxi meter sign on the roof. Visitors should check that the meter is turned on. If stuck in heavy traffic, the meter will start increasing by the minute. There is a minimum charge for the first couple of kilometres. There are also unmetered taxis where the fare must be agreed upon in advance. Passengers always have to pay for any road tolls incurred and should ensure they have plenty of small change to pay the taxi fare. Many people arrange a taxi through the concierge at their hotel where the rate is fixed and paid to the hotel before departure. It is also possible to rent a taxi for longer trips. In these cases, a fare should always be agreed in advance, even with metered taxis. Tipping is not expected but much appreciated.
Tuk tuk
These three-wheeled taxis ply the streets and are ideal for short journeys. Fares must be negotiated before getting in and depend on the distance travelled. The number of tuk tuks in the city is decreasing but they can still be found around hotels and visitor attractions.
River taxis
Numerous river taxis, operated by Chao Phraya Express Boat, travel upstream and downstream on the Chao Phraya River, acting more like buses than taxis. Some special express boats operate only during the morning and evening rush hours with limited stops. The destinations/stops are indicated by different coloured flags. Other smaller boats just shuttle from one side of the river to the other. A service operates from Sathorn Pier near the Saphan Taksin Skytrain station to 10 piers near major attractions and ends at Phra Arthit Pier. The service operates daily 0930-1500, with departures every 30 minutes, and a one-day unlimited pass costs B100.
Motorcycle taxis
As a result of the gridlock experienced during the rush hour, motorcycle taxis are now available as they can manoeuvre between the cars to reach their destination more quickly. It is compulsory for passengers to wear helmets, which are supplied by the driver. Drivers wear coloured tabards for identification and wait at road intersections.
Driving in the City
Driving in Bangkok requires a great deal of patience and a certain stubbornness. Few visitors attempt to hire a car, as good knowledge of the city is required to be able to drive around. The density of the traffic and the number of lanes mean that drivers always need to know which lane to be in. There are a number of expressways crossing the city with clearly signposted exits but traffic is often gridlocked during rush hour (0700-0900 and 1600-1800). Traffic direction and entry/exit locations change during the day without warning. Bangkok drivers, in particular taxis, buses and motorbikes, are very aggressive and unlikely to give way.
For those who do risk driving, many of the large shopping complexes and hotels have a car park attached and a convenient location is the Siam Centre on Rama I Road, which is open 24 hours. Car parks cost in the region of B30-40 for up to three hours and B10 for each subsequent hour. The centre can also be reached by Skytrain.
Car Hire
Many visitors to Thailand now choose to hire a car, although few hire one within Bangkok because of the difficulties of moving through the constantly heavy traffic. Car hire companies vary but drivers must be at least 21 or 23 years old and have held a driving licence for one to two years. A national licence and International Driving Permit are required. It is compulsory to purchase Collision Damage Waiver and Theft Protection and these are generally included in the hire price. Payment must be made by credit card. Avis have an office at 2-12 Wireless Road, and Budget at 19-23 Building A, Royal City Avenue, New Petchburi Road.
Bicycle Hire
On Rattanakosin Island, footpaths have been converted into cycle paths, which pass places such as the Royal Grand Palace and Sanam Luang. Bicycles can be hired from Spice Roads. Cash or credit card deposit is required.
Sightseeing
The sprawling city of Bangkok is full of interesting attractions for tourists, however, the heavily congested traffic means it is difficult to cover a lot of ground in a single day. Sightseeing should be selective if time is short or restricted to one area per day, although the Skytrain does help visitors travel across town more quickly.
An excellent way to appreciate the city’s layout is to go to the observation deck on the 77th floor of the Baiyoke Sky Hotel, one of the tallest hotels in the world.
Many of the main places of interest, such as the Royal Grand Palace, Wat Pho and the National Museum, are to the east of the Chao Phraya River (west of the north-south railway line) in an area called Rattanakosin Island, which is also home to many hotels. However, some visitors may stay to the east of the railway line in the Sukhumvit Road area, where there is excellent shopping, nightlife and tourist sights, such as Suan Pakkard Palace MuseumandJim Thompson Thai House.
Apart from the major sights (see Key Attractions), which are all ‘must-see’, there are numerous other attractions, including over 400 temples. To the north of the Royal Grand Palace is Sanam Luang, which is a huge public area surrounded by old tamarind trees. This area is used for many ceremonies throughout the year, such as the Ploughing Ceremony, as well as being a popular place for kite-flying and just passing the time.
The 19th-century Wat Suthat on Bamrung Muang Road is renowned for its murals depicting the lives of Buddha. In front of the temple is Sao Ching Cha (Giant Swing), which was the site of a Brahmin ceremony until the 1920s. Only the posts of the swing remain.
Chinatown is a lively area located between the river and Hualampong railway station. The area is fascinating for its maze of narrow lanes and open-fronted shops selling a cornucopia of items. On Yaowarat Road, Wat Trai Mit houses a gleaming solid gold Buddha, 3m (10ft) high and weighing over five tons. Close to Chinatown is Phahurat, the main Indian area, crammed with colourful fabric shops and excellent Indian restaurants.
On Si Ayutthaya Road, in an elegant area full of government buildings and the current royal residence, is Wat Benjamabopit, mainly built with Italian marble and a mix of European and Thai architecture. Lumphini Park is a haven of tranquillity in the heart of the city, dotted with pavilions and two small lakes.
For visitors who do not have time to travel in the rest of Thailand, the Ancient City is an open-air museum with full-size and scaled-down replicas of famous buildings, monuments and temples from all over the country. It covers an area of 112 hectares (280 acres) and is 33km (20 miles) southeast of the city centre.
Well worth a visit is Bang Pa In, 60km (37 miles) north of Bangkok, the former summer residence of the royal family in the 17th century, which is a collection of buildings reflecting Oriental and European influences.
Whether visiting palaces or temples, it is important to dress respectfully. Entry can and will be refused if this rule is not followed.
Key Attractions
Royal Grand Palace
The Royal Grand Palace is a glittering walled complex that houses several palaces, all highly decorated with tiles and ceramics. Building was begun in 1782 when Bangkok was founded as the capital of Thailand. The complex houses Wat Phra Kaeo, the holiest of all Thai temples, where the sacred Emerald Buddha rests, not covered in emeralds but jade. There is even a scale model of Angkor Wat. There is a strict dress code and visitors wearing shorts, mini-skirts, sleeveless shirts or flip-flops will be refused entry, although it is possible to hire trousers and plastic shoes.
Na Phra Lan Road
Opening hours: Daily 0830-1630.
Admission charge.
Vimanmek Palace
Vimanmek Palaceis the world’s largest building made entirely of golden teak. It used to be a royal summer retreat and was dismantled and rebuilt in Bangkok in 1900. The 81-room mansion stands in carefully manicured lawns, located close to the current royal residence, and contains 31 exhibition rooms. Visitors are not free to wander but must take a guided tour, which take place every 30 minutes. Highlights include Thailand’s first indoor bathroom and the oldest typewriter with Thai characters. The dress code is the same as for the Royal Grand Palace.
Ratchawithi Road
Opening hours: Daily 0930-1515.
Admission charge (included with ticket to the Royal Grand Palace).
Wat Pho (Temple of the Reclining Buddha)
Wat Pho is the oldest and largest temple in Bangkok and houses an enormous gold-plated Reclining Buddha, which is 46m (150ft) long and 15m (49ft) high. Today, the temple is also renowned for its teaching of herbal medicine and traditional massage. There is a strict dress code.
Thai Wang Road
Opening hours: Daily 0800-1700.
Admission charge.
National Museum
One of the largest and most comprehensive museums in the region, the National Museumhouses a vast collection of artefacts from the neolithic period through to more recent periods. The building, begun in 1782, is fascinating in its own right, having been built in traditional Thai style. The museum is so large that it needs more than one visit, however, if time is short, it must be spent in the lovely teak pavilion, which houses personal royal belongings. Free guided tours in English are given by volunteers at 0930 on Wednesdays and Thursdays and are highly recommended.
Na Phrathat Road
Opening hours: Wed-Sun 0900-1600.
Admission charge.
Wat Arun (Temple of Dawn)
Located on the west bank of the Chao Phraya River, the 17th-century Wat Arun has a 79m- (259ft-) high tower decorated with multicoloured ceramic tiles, which makes it a landmark along the river. The effect of the tiles is best observed at a distance. The temple was the first home of the Emerald Buddha before it was transferred to Wat Phra Kaeo in 1785. There is a nightly light and sound show between October and May.
Arun Amarin Road
Opening hours: Daily 0730-1730.
Admission charge.
Jim Thompson Thai House
Jim Thompson was an American who came to Bangkok after World War II and the Jim Thompson Thai House was his home until he mysteriously disappeared in Malaysia in 1967. He completely revived the Thai silk industry and his house, traditionally Thai in style, is now a museum showing his collection of Asian artefacts. The house is a complex of six traditional Thai teak structures brought to Bangkok from various parts of Thailand and its construction was completed in 1955. The house can only be visited on a guided tour.
6 Soi Kasemsan 2 Song, Rama I Road
Opening hours: Daily 0900-1700 (last tour at 1630).
Admission charge.
Royal Barge National Museum
The royal barges are rarely used by the royal family these days because of their age. A few of them are now preserved in the Royal Barge National Museum on the Thonburi side of the Chao Phraya River. The eight long, narrow boats on display are intricately gilded and each need between 50 and 60 rowers to take their oars. The figure on the bow of each boat signifies whether it carries the King and Queen or other members of the royal family. The most important barge is the Suphannahong, exclusively used by the King.
Khlong Bangkok Noi
Opening hours: Daily 0900-1700.
Admission charge.
Bangkok Tours
Walking Tours
Although Bangkok is not really the best city for much exploration on foot, some companies and local guides offer a walking tours, which usually last around 3 hours to a full day.
Bus Tours
Several local and International operators run small group tours with free pick-ups from numerous hotels throughout Bangkok. Tours can be booked direct or through the tour desk in some hotels. Half-day city tours include the ‘Royal Grand Palace Tour’ and the ‘Temples Tour’.
Bicycle Tours
Every day there are bicycle tours of Bang Kra Jao, a wilderness area with small villages, temples and jungle, just across the Chao Phraya River. The charge includes the hire of a bicycle, helmet, water and snacks. Spice Roads also offer other day tours.
Boat Tours
Bangkok is laced with khlongs (canals) and life alongside the khlongs is far removed from the hustle and bustle of downtown Bangkok. An ideal way to see this side of Bangkok is a boat trip, passing tiny temples, orchards, orchid farms and typical houses on stilts. Some trips also include a visit to the floating market at Damnoan Saduak.
Shopping
Bangkok is arguably the best place in Asia for shopping and visitors will be spoilt for choice with the extensive shopping malls, department stores, small shops and markets. The city is also a bargain hunter’s paradise and haggling with street vendors is to be expected and all part of the fun enjoyed by both buyer and seller.
The Silom Road area is one of the main shopping centres, which boasts numerous specialist shops and department stores, including Robinsons, several shopping plazas and a wide range of silk and antique shops, as well as many tailors. The River City Shopping Complex, adjacent to the Royal Orchid Sheraton Hotel, has two floors devoted to antiques. Prices are fixed in most department stores but they do frequently offer discounts to interested buyers. The ultimate shopping experience is to be had at The Emporiumon Sukhumvit Road with brand-name clothing and accessories, as well as cinemas, supermarkets and restaurants.
However, most visitors will head to the many street markets for their colourful atmosphere and lower prices. The Sukhumvit Road area has a street market that runs most of the day but is busiest at night. Dozens of stalls sell clothes, bags, silk items and gifts. Apart from the colourful nightlife in Patpong, the area also has a bustling night market where clothes and souvenirs are a real bargain.
The weekend market at Chatuchak Park, on Phaholyothin Road, sells virtually everything that Thailand makes or grows, such as furniture, carpets, ceramics, watches, clothes, food and flowers. The Suan Lum night bazaar at the intersection of Rama IV and Wireless Roads is very popular with thousands of stalls selling gifts, clothes, handicrafts and jewellery. However, the market is rumoured to be closing so the site can be redeveloped and at the moment there are no plans to move the bazaar elsewhere.
Chinatown is full of gold shops and the nearby cloth market at Phahurat has a huge range of superb fabrics. Woeng Nakhon Kasem, better known as the ‘Thieves’ Market’, located between Yaowarat Road and New Road, sells antique porcelain, copperware and furniture. Good buys to be found throughout the city include silk items, silver and gold, gems (rubies and sapphires are indigenous to Thailand), pearls, painted umbrellas and fans, ceramics, wickerwork, woodcarvings and leather goods. It is also an ideal place to have clothes made and the quality is of a high standard.
Many stores are open 12 hours a day, seven days a week and the street markets have even longer hours, although some are busier in the mornings and others in the evenings.
A Thailand Duty-Free Shop is located in the Downtown Duty Free Mall, King Power Complex, Rangnam Road. Tourists can pay for their purchases here and collect them at the airport immediately prior to departure from the country. Value Added Tax (7%) can be refunded on goods bought in shops labelled ‘VAT refund for tourists’, where there is a minimum transaction of B2,000 including VAT. VAT Refund Application for Tourists forms are completed at the time of purchase and it is necessary to show one’s passport. Cash refunds (minimum B5,000) can be obtained in the airport departure hall and often the goods purchased must also be shown.
Best Half Day Excursions from Bangkok
Rose Garden:
The Rose Garden is a popular tourist attraction located 32km (20 miles) to the southwest of Bangkok. It features daily cultural shows, including dancing and Thai boxing. The resort is set in well-kept gardens and is open 0800-1700.
Damnoan Saduak Floating Market:
Although this market is 80km (50 miles) west of Bangkok, it is far more interesting than the floating market in Bangkok, as it has not been turned into a tourist attraction. In the early morning, the narrow canals are full of small boats carrying fruit and vegetables sold by local women. The market is very colourful and atmospheric – but it is all over by 1100, which necessitates an early start from Bangkok. Although it is possible to take a bus from the Southern Bus Terminal to within a mile of the market, it is probably easier to join an organised tour from a hotel (see Tours of the City).
Best Day Trips and Places to Visit Near Bangkok
Kanchanaburi:
Located 122km (76 miles) from Bangkok is the site of the infamous Bridge over the River Kwai. Built by Allied PoWs during World War II, this is an area of exceptional natural beauty, with forested mountains and wooded valleys. Two immaculately maintained Allied war cemeteries are located just outside of the town. Kanchanaburi can be reached by either bus or train or by tour bus from Bangkok.
Ayutthaya:
This was the Thai capital for over 400 years until its destruction in 1767. Ruins of numerous temples and palace buildings cover a vast area. The beauty of the place is such that it was declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO. It is located 76km (47 miles) north of Bangkok and can be reached by bus, train or boat.
Suan Pakkad Palace Museum
Suan Pakkad Palace used to be the residence of Princess Chumphot, one of Thailand’s leading art collectors. Five traditional wooden Thai houses, brought to Bangkok from around the country, are set in one of the loveliest gardens in the city. The museum houses an important collection of antiques.
Ban Kham Thieng
Ban Kham Thieng is a 200-year-old classic northern-style teak house, brought from Chiang Mai and reconstructed in Bangkok. The house was owned by a worker and shows the simplicity of rural life in the north during the last century. It contains a collection of traditional implements used by farmers and rice field fishermen.
Ko Kret
Some 20km (12 miles) to the north of the city, Ko Kret is a tiny island community virtually untouched by the nearby metropolis. There are no roads on the island and many of its residents rely on its potteries for employment, as well as fruit and flowers from its many plantations. The island can be reached via Highways 31 and 35, then ferry from Pak Kret Pier. The Chao Phraya Express Boat run an excursion every Saturday and Sunday from Sathorn Pier departing at 0900.
Special Events
New Year’s Day, 1 Jan, celebrations traditionally begin with merit-making in the mornings, when Buddhists take gifts of flowers, incense or donations to the temples, followed by parties and entertainment around Sanam Luang for the rest of the day, Sanam Luang area
Bangkok International Film Festival,Jan/Feb, throughout the city
Makha Puja, Feb/Mar, Buddhist Holy day featuring various day and night candlelit ceremonies, temples around the city
International Kite Festival, Mar/Apr, kite fighting and demonstrations, Sanam Luang
International Bangkok Motor Show, Mar/Apr, Bangkok International Trade & Exhibition Centre
Bangkok International Book Fair,Mar/Apr, Queen Sirikit National Convention Centre
Bangkok Fringe Festival, Apr, innovative theatre productions, Patravadi Theatre
Songkran (Thai New Year), Apr, religious ceremonies and public festivities involving lots of water, throughout the city
Royal Ploughing Ceremony, May, celebration of the start of the rice-growing season, Sanam Luang
Asarnha Puja Day/Khao Phansa Day, Jul, commemorates Buddha’s first sermon and the beginning of Buddhist Lent, temples throughout the city
Queen’s Birthday Celebrations, 12 Aug, public holiday with display of lights decorating public buildings, throughout the city
Yaowarat Food Festival, Sep/Oct, taste and watch the preparation of Chinese, Thai, international and vegetarian food, Chinatown
Chulalongkorn Day, 23 Oct, public holiday in memory of Rama V, best seen at the Equestrian Statue in the Royal Plaza
Bangkok Marathon,Nov, Sanam Chai
King’s Birthday Celebrations, 5 Dec, public holiday with display of lights decorating public buildings, throughout the city
Sport
Bangkok and Thailand are synonymous with Thai Boxing (Muay Thai), the traditional sport of kick-boxing, where feet, knees and elbows can be used as well as fists. Its popularity means that fights are held every night of the week around the city, particularly at Ratchadamnoen Stadium, Ratchadamnoen Nok Road, on Monday, Wednesday, Thursday and Sunday nights, and Lumphini Stadium, Rama IV Road, on Tuesday, Friday and Saturday nights.
Two other sports are also popular in Thailand. Kite fighting takes place in the hot season where opposing teams fly male Chula and female Pakpao kites in a surrogate battle of the sexes. Visitors can witness spectacular events most weekends at Sanam Luang. Takraw is played using a woven rattan ball where a circle of men use their feet, knees, thighs, chests and shoulders to acrobatically pass the ball to each other, endeavouring to keep it airborne and to kick it into a suspended basket. Tournaments are periodically held at Sanam Luang. The local press will have details.
The Thailand football leaguehas two divisions, the premier and the first, and the teams have names such as Air Force, Bangkok Bank and the Navy and Telephone Organisation of Thailand. Information on games can be obtained from the Football Association of Thailand.
Tickets for all sporting events can be bought at the venue up to an hour before the match starts.
Fitness Centres:
Many of the centres throughout the city are attached to hotels and are for members only. However, daily membership of B200 is available at the JTC Health & Fitness Club, Jewellery Trade Centre, South Tower, 919/1 Silom Road.
Golf:
Thailand has many excellent golf courses and some are open to visitors. The Royal Golf & Country Club, is located within easy reach of Bangkok, southeast of the city at 69 Moo 7, Sukhumvit 17, Bang Sao Thong, Samut Prakan – best reached by taxi. It has a beautiful 18-hole course, with green fees for visitors of B1,500 during the week and B2,400 at the weekend. Membership is available for B309,000. The Rose Garden Golf Club is located 32km (20 miles) southwest of the city at Tha Talad Sub District, Sampran, Nakhon Pathom – reached along National Highway Number 4. It has an 18-hole championship golf course with green fees of B700 during the week and B1,300 at weekends (closed Mondays).
Swimming:
Siam Water Park to the north of the city, on Sukhaphiban 2 Road, has waterslides and artificial surf. Nawasri Pool, 209 Ramkhamhaeng Soi 21, is open to non-members.
Tennis:
Tennis clubs that open to the public include Asoke Sport Club, 302/81 Mooban Tawaamit, Asoke-Din Daeng, Sawadee Soi, 35/5 Soi 31 Sukhumvit Road, and Central Tennis Court, 13/1 Soi Attakarn Prasit, Sathorn Tai Road.